nina's tales: india



July 26, 2009
India!


Hi All and welcome to my new GAP friends!

The plane to Delhi was without a doubt the nosiest and most active ride I have ever had thanks to the 50 little Korean kids who were on a trip. They never stopped moving and yelling, until Jamie told the closest ones to be quiet. We were trying to enjoy our Bollywood in flight movie! The flight attendents wore saris which was a nice change and served us a delicious Indian meal. Our transfer went perfectly as we were met at the airport and driven to our hotel. Poor Jess was still not feeling well, and had to throw up while in the car. We couldn't stop, so in the dark, I grabbed a plastic bag from my backpack which held some dirty laundry, shook the laundry into my backpack and handed her the bag. The next day I realized I was missing my 2 pair of underwear. I did not mention this to our driver when we saw him that morning, nor did he.

Wow! A full day of sightseeing with our driver Sewah who will be with us on our whole trip until we fly to Veranace and we also had a local guide., both of whom speak very good English. Now this is the way to travel! Everything is taken care of and our car is a very nice mini van with awesome airconditioning! We crossed from New Dehli which is the government side with very nice places and lots of green space, flowering trees and into Old Delhi which is as you probably expect, crowded, noisy and narrow streets.We began with the Red Fort which was built in 1638. It was from here that the flag of independent India was flown for the first time. It was also here 6 years ago that terrorists were caught and killed, so security is very tight. Armed soldiers and separate lines for men and women to be searched- yep, touched all over. I puzzled my frisker with my money belt, but I showed her I was harmless. Jess had taken some rehydration salts and seemed way better! Next we got two rickshaws and were taken through Connegaut (sp?) place where the markets are. I am so glad we never walked this area. What a mass of humanity and goods. Down a narrow street crowded on both sides with stuff and we are competing for space with cars, motorcycles, bicycles and pedestrians! Loads of silver, saris, jewellery, flowers and wedding things.It was a wild and crazy ride but totally worth it. We then went to a mosque where we had to put on robes to cover our arms and shorts.Jamie had to wear a skirt. We looked like total dorks and I have the pictures to prove it Lucky for us the Go India tour rep gave us foot covers as we had to take off our sandals. The red rock courtyard was amazingly hot even through our cardboard paper soled foot covers. I do not know how so many people could stand the hot stones. My feet were burning like at Grand Beach on a hot day!

Next stop was the place where Ghandi was creamated. They have built a lovely park area around the site which has an eternal flame. The Commonwealth games are here next year, so they are trying to spruce things up. Lots of construction especially to expand the metro system.The Jama Masjia is a mausoleum built for a king after he died in 1656. It is the model for the Taj Mahal which was built later in Agra. Very beautiful spot. Saw where the king and queen - Raj and Ran slept, ate entertianed and received visitors. Lunch was at a very nice restaurant- no "Deli Belly" as our guide calls it. Our next place was a the ruins of th efirst mosque ever built in India. it has individual intricate columns and the tallest tower of any mosque in India. That is so beautiful with 5 stories, no two stories alike and the top encompasing all the elements of the previous stories. From this tower they would cal people to pray, men in the courtyard, women in the patios around the courtyard. On the way back to the hotel, we drove past the Parliament Buildings, the president's Palace and India gate which is a war memorial looking very much like the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. Yep we covered a lot of ground today. The driving is on the left and it is as crazy as Beijing and Shanghi. Drivers are constantly honking to indicate their desire to pass. Lights are few and far between and I would not dare to cross these streets. Our driver says the three keys to getting around in India are a good horn, good brakes and good luck! That I believe.

Nina

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July 27, 2009
On the road again


Hey,

The hotel in Jaipur has wireless internet, so I can catch up in the comfort of my room.

While driving in Delhi, when we stop at a light or when leaving a tourist attraction we are literally besieged by hawkers and beggars. We have to not make eye contact or respond or we are sunk.The tapping on the windows is crazy. Jamie likes to joke around with the little kids, and there are lots of those trying to sell all sorts of stuff. There are also a lot of homeless dogs who strangely all look alike except for the colour. In Delhi there are no skyscrapers as there is a limit on how high buildings can be. Delhi has 17 million people and it has been a lot more green conscious as our guide says. The sky was clear unlike Bejing. The movie "Slumdog Millionnaire" shows very accurately the typical streets and living conditions in old Delhi. In New Delhi, the major hotels have gated, guarded entrances where vehicles are searched before being allowed entrance. The security has been enhanced since the Mumbai tragedy. We occasionally see groups of people wearing orange robes. These are religious pilgrims on their way to the Ganges River where they will get some "holy water" and return with it to their home. Local businesses provide them with food and they receive shelter where they ask. I was very surprised to see almost every woman wearing a sari. They really are colourful and beautiful.

We set off for Agra through the countryside which was a nice change with all the green and fields along the way. We've seem a cobra snake charmer, decorated elephant and lots of wandering goats and cows. These animals all have owners and they wander about until evening when they return home. Bit of a challenge when they are in the middle of the highway! We have also seen monkeys, horses, camels, donkeys, peacocks,Egyptian Vultures and bright green parrots while driving along.

Visited the Red Fort in Agra, actually it was a walled palace-100 acres inside. The wet moat contained crocodiles and the dry moat had bears, elephants and tigers prowling around, so it was difficult to break into. The grandfather of the emperor who built Taj Mahal built this fort. He had 7 wives and 300 concubines, so he needed a lot of rooms to house them all. His grandson, The Moghul Emporer Shah Jehang was the one to build Taj. His second wife who bore him 14 children in 19 years, died in childbirth. The poor thing must have been worn out!! She was so loved by her husband that he built this mausoleum for her. It took 22 years, 20,000 labourers and the strength of 10,000 elephants to complete. Our guide says he's been to Taj 3,000 times, so he had the best places for us to take pictures. Very spectacular gate entrance which gradually reveals the entire structure. it was built to represent heaven on earth, gardens, pools and spectacular white marble inlaid with stones like lapis lazuli, jade, turquoise and pearl. This monument to love was so expensive to build that his son, fearing that he would bankrupt the country, had him put under house arrest. The king had a special room built where he could sit and gaze out over the Taj. When he died, he was also laid to rest by his beloved queen.

We are now in our third province of India in the city of Jaipur, the "pink city" named for the pinkish coloured sandstone which was used to build the old city. These ancient forts with massive palaces built so long ago are just lovely. The murals, carvings and inlays are so beautiful even after all these centuries, but we are instructed by our guides to imagine the picture of the heyday of the emperors. They would be lounging in their ornate palace with beautiful silk hangings, thick persian rugs and velvet cushions wearing dazzling clothes of brilliant hues decked with precious jewels. One palace had hollow walls where water was poured to keep the walls cool in the summer. There would be fountains and water filled channels with rose petals. Musicians played in ornate gardens and ladies danced. Imagine.

We visited rug making, gem cutting and textile printing shops. it was facinating to see how these treasures were made. Jaipur mines emeralds, sapphires and rubies nearby. The raw material looks like any other rock but when hand cut and polished the results are spectacular. I was tempted by the emeralds and silk carpets, but settled on a print top instead.

Our driver stays with us and takes very good care of us, but each city we have a new guide. We have good hotels and after a very busy day of sightseeing, we are happy to return to the hotel for a nap, dinner in the restaurant and relax until the next morning when we continue our excellent adventure.

Maureen, I am drinking Indian Chai tea ann loving it! We missed the monsoon in Delhi and are enjoying the cooling breezes in this northern hilly area.

Nina

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August 3, 2009
Northwest Rajastan


Hello Again,

We are at a hotel with internet, but it sometimes cuts out, so I am in the office typing.

We all rode elephants up the steep hill to the Amber Fort. The elephants used to be painted very colourfully, but the chemicals in the paint damaged their skins, so now they use a little powder colour. We wondered why our elephant had pink frecked ears and trunk.This palace had walls and ceilings of tiny mirrors and a huge ornate reception hall where Lord Mountbatten who was th elast viceroy of India met with the last Maharajah in a ceremonial hand over of power to the people. Cool to be where so much history has been made. The kings were allowed to keep their palaces and titles. They even got salaries for th government until 1971 when Indira Ghandi changed the constitution to prevent the money being given. They aren't hurting for money though. One rents out half his palce to a hotel group who charge people like Richard Gere 5000.00 US a day to stay there and that does not include breakfast!

We saw an extensive weapons collection and royal outfits including one king who was 7 feet tal and weighed 500 pounds! They had very clever ways to protect the kings. Besides building on steep hills and the moats, the stairs were very narrow. Guards used to stand at th etop of each stiar case with swords ready to cut off the heads. You have to duck you head every time as the doorways are so low. There was a king who had a special light weigh short bed made which was o he would always be ready to jump up if attacked. he could also pick up the bed if he was tied into it and use his hidden sword to fight. We saw knives which were concelled in sleeves, which had scissors - stick in, cut out he insides! secret escape tunnels were for the ladies and the children. If the king was killed or captured, the wives would strat a fire and jump in. The extended to all wives. This practice of Satu was last done in 1952. We saw the walls which had the handprints of ladies who committed this suicide.

On the drive to Mandawa, we pass through hills of sand and much sparser vegetation. We see lots more sheep, camels and occasionally gazelles. The cows and water buffalo are ever present in the streets and on the highways. In MAndawa we stay at a haveli which has been converted into t ahotel. Havaelis are the beautifu homes of th erich merchants. This is on the silk road so tradrs of spices, silk, jewels and opium got very rich. Now the fmily owned homes are either converted to shops,hotels, restaurants or left to become delapitated. Our haveli was beautifully and intricately restored.with with marble, painted walls a garden and center courtyard. Our room on the second floor opened to a private courtyard with bathroom on the right and massive bedroom on the left. The dor to the bathrom waws so low that i hit my head three times. yes I am a slow learner!

We took a camel ride intot he desert to see the sunset. When we got back , I dropped my fan as I was getting down and the camel peed on it! Dinner was a rof top candlelit buffet with music and dancing. We met a beautiful young woman from Verona, Italy. We invited her toshare coffee with us as she was travelling alone. Her story was that she had broken up with her boyfriend and spur of the moment she booked an India tour. 10 days later, she's in India.

The 4 of us went to the hotel Hukka bar and shared a pipe of apple flavoured mild tobacco. Yes, I smoked a huuka pipe! So ends another amazing day in India!

Nina

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August 4, 2009
Bikaner and beyond


Hi All,

I have to take advantage of the internet while I have it and catch up on our trip.

Our drive through the Thar Desert to Bikaner was the closest place to the pakistani border. Of course Jamie wanted to go there, but our driver said there were too many terrorists. There is a major Indian Army base near Bikaner. We stayed on an oasis resort 10 km from the city. We were welcomed with flower necklaces and showed to our guest house, passing by an amazing pool! We had a post lunch and pre dinner swim.

Our next stop was Jaislemer, the golden city, named for the yellow sandstone. Again we had a beautiful pool and massive room. Our local guide, Kumar, lived outside of the city. His family was in the camel business. Jessica was willing to trade me to him as his second wife for 20 camels. We really enjoyed the walk in the fort and especially in the small city streets. It's the cleanest place we have been to yet.We saw the typical life of the city, local shops, not the touristy ones. No hassles for money or to buy things. By the end of our tour, my worth had increased to 30 camels. Not bad eh?

This is monsoon season in India, but we have been very lucky with the weather. It has reached 44, but usually there is a breeze and low humidity. At the Jain temple, I learned that we were in cvobra territory. Our guide was talking to a gardener who reported a cobra 4 days ago. It was 7 feet long with a hood of 4inches. There is a special cobra hunte who is called to remove the snakes from people's houses. Thank goodness they are hidden during the day. The snake charmer's cobras have all had their poison removed.

Leaving the desert the next day we begin to drive through lush green valleys and jungle area to Ranakpur where a Jain temple has been built in a jungle to avoid religious persecution. This one reminds me of the one we saw, Arlene outside of Toronto. 1 444 columns supporting 29 halls carved from marble and nothing gluing it together! Built 500 years ago. To our delight, we see monkeys in the parking lot. Our driver had to move the car because they we climbing and jumping on it. people feed them , so they can be bold an approach. They bite, so we keep our distance.A rooftop lunch in the town and then a rooftop dinner at Sunset point with our driver. We asked him to join us for dinner to thank him for being such a great driver. Jamie and he greet each other every morning with "hello my brother". We enjoy the sunset and the lights coming on at the palace and town along with an excellent meal ordered by Shiva.

On to Jodpur, the blue city because so many houses are painted blue. It also is supposed to keep the mosquitos away. Do you think that would work in Gimli? The road to the fort was very narrow and winding with mountian on one side and sheer drop on the other. Compound this with the crazy driving and it was a bit scary. Friendship day today, so lots of activity in the street outside our hotel. We went to abake shop across the stree for som ecookies. We are in the most modern part of a city so far.

Take care everyone,

Nina

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August 7, 2009
Udaipur & Varanasi


Hi again,

In Udapuir we met up with our Italian friend Maria. She showed us pictures of her visit to the Rat Temple. These rats are believed to be the spirits of the dead and are sacred. She was all set to back out but she was the only tourist there and they made a big fuss over her, so she went on in. They gave her a bucket of milk which she was supposed to pour into a big dish. The few scurrying rats turned into hundreds streaming from everywhere. She said she showered for an hour afterwards!

Our next stop was a palace which belongs to the current Maharana which is the king of all Maharajas. he was the king of all the 565 princely states in India. He's 67 and stil lives in 1/2 of the palace. The rest is a hotel and the other part is open to the public. This massive palace was started in 1559 and 22 successivce kings added on. In the afternoon we took a boat ride on Lake Pichola site of two summer palaces. This is where the James Bond movie, "Octopussy" was filmed. We stopped at one palace whichj is now a resort and had the national beer, "Kingfisher" while overlooking the lake. Back at the hotel, Jess and I each got a massage and I got my roots touched up at the beauty parlour. The massage was $15.00 including tip and the dye job cost less than the price of a box of dye back home!

We then flew back to Delhi and connected to Varanasi. This is one of the holiest sites in the country because Pilgrims come from all over to collect water form the Ganges river to take home. They also bathe in the Ganges . it is expected that every Hindu make this pilgrimage once in thier lifetime! It is very crowded on the Ghats- steps leading to the river. We take an evening cruise on the river and see the crematoriums which operate 24 hours a day. People bring their loved ones to be burned here and then they take a boat and spread the ashes in the river. If they do that their loved ones go to heaven and are not reborn again. As the sun sets, priests perform public ceremonies which are colourful and musical. We watch from our boat and then buy floating flower candles to let them go in the water. We watch our remembrance candles merge with all the other twinking lights on the river.

We rise at 4:30 am to take a sunrise boat trip, which rows us past the palace and homes along the river. We all get marked by holy people as we accend back up the ghat steps, with a red dot on our forehead. I was so startled by this guy appearing in from of my face, speaking Hindi and reaching out for me that I must have flinched badly. My tika red dot looked like I was shot in the forehead!

Nina

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August 9, 2009
Past Varanasi


It's me again!

for some reason this computer keeps sticking on the capitals, so this will all be in lower case. we left veranasi for a drive to the deer park where buddah preached his first sermon. our lady guide who is about my age, explains that this happenend in thre fifth century |BC . buddah was actally the son of a king and named sidhartha. he renounced all wordly things and travelled the earth preaching peace, truth. sactity of life and living off the land and others' generosity. the ancient city which developed there, fell into run, but was unearthed by the british in the 17th century. many artifacts were recovered and placed in a museum including the column which is on all the rupee money.

northern india is in a drought with many farmers suffering from lack of rain. the price of vegetables and grains have tripled due to the shortages. this should be the monsoon season, but we have had only one short rain while we are here. in our guides words, 'price is stretching the sky'

we visited the large university campus where our guide graduated from.there are 16 faculties and over 35,000 students. school is free up to grade 6, but there is a cronic absenteeism problem with the teachers in the government schools. they are absent 25% of the time or hire someone to sit in the class and not teach, just drink tea and smoke. if parents can afford it, they send their children to private school. only the top students get into junior high and beyond.

we flew back to delhi for a night before heading tpo thailand. our original driver was there to pick us up in delhi. we were very pleased to see him and jessica promised not to puke in his car again.

Nina

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